A Dorset button begins with very little: a ring, a needle, and thread. Its neatness comes from keeping the tension steady as the bare ring is covered, divided into spokes, and filled with a small woven centre.
The method below makes a simple wheel-style button. It is suitable for a first attempt and can later be varied with different ring sizes, thread weights, spoke counts, and colours.
Materials and preparation
You will need:
- a button ring or small curtain ring
- strong sewing thread for covering and anchoring
- wool, embroidery thread, or another smooth thread for the visible work
- an embroidery or tapestry needle that passes easily through the ring
- small, sharp scissors
A ring with a slightly rounded edge is comfortable to work over, though a flat ring can also be used. The ring determines the finished button’s size. A small ring is easier to control at first; a larger ring gives more room for a pronounced centre and additional spokes.
Choose a thread that is firm enough not to snap when pulled snugly. Smooth cotton, linen, wool, or embroidery thread can all work, provided the thread is not so thick that it crowds the ring. If using a loosely spun wool, handle it gently so that repeated rubbing does not make it fuzzy.
Cut a length that you can manage without tangling. For a small button, a few yards may be enough, but the exact amount depends on the ring, thread thickness, and number of spokes. It is better to join a fresh length neatly than to struggle with an overlong thread that knots while you work.
Photo by Elio Santos on Unsplash.
1. Cover the ring
Thread the needle with the thread chosen for the foundation. Leave a short tail at the back of the ring. Bring the needle through the centre of the ring and over its outer edge, then pass it back through the opening. Pull the thread through to form the first loop around the ring.
Continue making close blanket stitches around the entire ring. Each stitch should sit beside the last, covering the ring without leaving bare patches. Keep the stitches upright and fairly even rather than pulling them so tightly that they bunch together.
As you work, hold the ring between finger and thumb and turn it gradually. This is easier than twisting the needle around a stationary ring. Lay each new stitch against the previous one and check both edges: the outside should be covered, and the inside opening should remain clear.
After several stitches, trim the short starting tail close to the work. The surrounding stitches will hold it in place. Continue until the whole ring is covered. If a narrow gap appears, add a stitch before moving on. A completely covered ring provides the firm edge needed for the rest of the button.
Keeping the foundation even
The foundation is not merely a covering; it is the button’s frame. If the stitches vary greatly in width, the later spokes will not be evenly spaced. Do not try to correct every small difference by pulling harder. Instead, use the needle to nudge a stitch into place before beginning the next one.
When the ring is fully covered, you may gently rotate the blanket-stitch ridges towards the inner edge. This small adjustment, sometimes called slicking, makes the outer edge smoother and gives the spokes a more defined inner boundary. Work carefully so that the thread does not loosen.
2. Set the spokes
For the spokes, use the same thread or change to a contrasting colour. Bring the needle from the back, close to the inner edge of the covered ring. Carry the thread straight across the opening to the opposite side and pass the needle down through the covered ring.
Bring it up again beside the first point and carry another straight thread across the centre. The second spoke should cross the first at the middle. Continue dividing the opening, turning the ring as needed, until the spokes are evenly distributed around it.
A simple button may have eight or ten spokes. More spokes create a denser wheel and a smaller woven centre; fewer spokes leave a more open design. Count as you go and space each spoke by sight. Exact mathematical spacing is less important than keeping the gaps visually alike.
Try to take every spoke through the same part of the covered ring. If some enter near the outside and others near the inside, the wheel can look lopsided. Keep the thread moderately firm, but do not pull so hard that the ring bends or the centre becomes puckered.
At the centre, each new spoke will pass over or under the previous ones. This crossing is soon covered by the woven centre, so there is no need to force the threads into a perfectly flat arrangement at this stage.
Photo by Ugandan Crafts on Unsplash.
3. Weave the centre
Once the spokes are in place, begin weaving around their centre. Bring the needle up near the middle, between two spokes. Pass the thread over one spoke and under the next, continuing around the circle. On the following round, reverse the order: pass under the spoke that was previously passed over, then over the next one.
Work in small, even rounds. Keep the needle close to the centre at first, then allow each new round to sit neatly beside the last. The woven area will gradually spread outward and hide the crossings of the spokes.
The centre should be firm but not tight enough to draw the spokes into a hollow. If the weaving slips, use the needle tip to settle each round before pulling the thread fully through. A blunt tapestry needle is helpful because it is less likely to split the existing threads.
Continue until the centre reaches the desired size. For a traditional wheel-like appearance, leave a narrow band of spokes visible between the woven centre and the covered ring. If you weave almost to the ring, the button will have a denser, more solid face.
You can introduce a second colour for the centre, but secure the new thread at the back rather than tying a bulky knot on the front. Begin with a few small stitches through the existing work, then weave over them. When the colour is complete, pass the thread under nearby stitches at the back and trim it close.
4. Finish the back
Turn the button over and inspect the back. The spokes should be held securely where they enter the ring, and there should be no long loose loops.
To finish, pass the needle under several stitches on the back of the covered ring or through the spoke ends. Make a small securing stitch, then pass the needle under the surrounding threads once more before trimming. If your thread is slippery, make a second small anchoring stitch rather than relying on a single one.
Avoid a large knot. It can make the button sit unevenly against fabric and may catch when the button is used. The best finish is low, firm, and close to the ring.
If the button will be sewn onto clothing, leave a short thread tail or add a separate sewing thread at the back for attaching it. Dorset buttons are decorative as well as functional, but the thread used to construct one is not always the most convenient thread for stitching it to a garment.
Photo by Liana S on Unsplash.
Troubleshooting a first button
The ring shows through
The blanket stitches are too far apart or have shifted. Add a few close stitches over the gap, then settle the ridges towards the inside. It is easier to correct the foundation before adding spokes.
The spokes are uneven
The entry points around the ring were not spaced consistently, or the ring was turned irregularly while working. On the next attempt, pause after every second spoke and compare the empty spaces. A smaller number of spokes can also make spacing easier to judge.
The centre is lopsided
The woven rounds may have been pulled more firmly on one side. Loosen the last few rounds carefully with the needle and rebuild them, or use the needle tip to ease the thread towards the thinner side before securing it.
The button feels soft
The thread may not have been kept under enough tension, or the ring may be too large for the chosen thread. Work the next button with a smaller ring or a slightly firmer thread. Tension should be steady rather than forceful; excessive pulling can distort the ring.
Variations to try
The simplest way to vary a Dorset button is to change the proportions. A small ring with fine thread gives a delicate button, while a larger ring and wool thread produce a more visible, rustic surface. You can also use one colour for the covered ring and spokes, then add a contrasting woven centre.
Changing the spoke count alters the character of the wheel. Fewer spokes leave a more open centre; additional spokes make a fuller, denser pattern. Once the basic construction is comfortable, try a second set of spokes in another colour or build a deeper centre with several rounds of weaving.
For a row of buttons, keep the ring size and thread weight consistent. Small differences are part of handmade work, but a shared proportion helps the buttons sit together as a considered set.
A Dorset button rewards a slow pace. Cover the ring completely, keep the spokes calm and even, and let the woven centre grow one round at a time. The finished button should feel firm in the hand, with a clean edge and a secure back ready for use.