A tailor’s ham is a small, firm cushion shaped to support curved parts of a garment while they are pressed. A seam roll performs a similar task in a narrower form, keeping the iron from pressing a seam allowance into the fabric beneath it.
Together, they are useful for darts, princess seams, collars, lapels, sleeve heads, cuffs, and other places where a flat ironing board would leave an unwanted crease. Both can be made from remnants: a tightly woven cotton or linen outer shell, wool for the pressing surface, and a dense filling such as clean sawdust or wool scraps.
The work is straightforward, but the filling deserves care. The finished tools should be firm enough to resist the iron, yet not so hard that they bruise the fabric or make pressing awkward.
What to make
The tailor’s ham is a plump, roughly egg-shaped cushion. One side is usually more rounded than the other, so it can support both shallow and pronounced curves. It is useful beneath a dart or curved seam and can also support a collar as it is shaped.
The seam roll is long and narrow, like a small padded sausage. It supports a seam allowance beneath the iron while keeping the body of the garment lifted away from the pressing surface. Its narrow shape makes it particularly helpful for sleeves, trouser legs, shoulder seams, and long curved seams.
You can make either tool on its own, but making both from the same materials gives a useful pair. Keep the wool side uppermost when pressing delicate or textured cloth. The cotton or linen shell gives strength and structure, while the wool helps hold warmth without presenting a slick surface to the fabric.
Materials and preparation
You will need:
- Firm, closely woven cotton or linen for the inner shells.
- Wool fabric for one outer pressing surface on each tool.
- Strong cotton thread.
- Clean, dry fine sawdust, or wool scraps for stuffing.
- Paper and pencil for templates.
- Scissors, pins, a hand-sewing needle, and an iron.
Use wool that is free from loose surface fibres, heavy embroidery, or unstable edges. A medium-weight coating, flannel, or tightly woven wool remnant is suitable. Very loose or hairy wool may shed into the seams and leave fibres on the garment.
Sawdust should be clean and completely dry. Avoid material that contains paint, varnish, oil, dampness, or large sharp splinters. If there is any doubt about its cleanliness, use wool scraps instead. Wool stuffing is slower to pack firmly, but it is clean, resilient, and less likely to work through the cloth.
For a first pair, make the cotton shell as a separate inner cushion and cover it with wool where the iron will touch. This gives the tool a durable body and makes it possible to replace a worn wool cover later.
Photo by Khang Nguyen on Unsplash.
Make the tailor’s ham
1. Draw a half-template
Fold a sheet of paper in half. Draw a curved, egg-like outline against the fold, approximately 25 centimetres long and 18 centimetres wide at its broadest point. The exact size is not important; what matters is a useful difference between the two ends.
Make one end noticeably fuller and rounder than the other. The fuller end supports deeper curves, while the flatter end is useful for gentler shaping. Keep the outline smooth and avoid sharp corners, which are difficult to stuff evenly.
Add a seam allowance of about 1.5 centimetres around the outline, then cut out the paper template. Open it flat and check that both sides are symmetrical. If the curve looks uneven on paper, it will be more troublesome in cloth.
2. Cut the shell
Cut two pieces from the firm cotton or linen using the template. Mark the fuller end lightly on both pieces so you can keep the shape oriented correctly during sewing.
For the wool surface, cut one matching piece without a seam allowance if you intend to place it over the completed cotton shell. Alternatively, cut two wool pieces with seam allowances and make a full wool cover. A single wool panel is simpler and leaves less bulk in the seams.
3. Sew the cotton body
Place the two cotton pieces with their right sides together. Stitch around the edge, leaving an opening of 7 to 10 centimetres along the straighter side. Use a firm backstitch by hand or a short, strong machine stitch.
Clip the seam allowance at the tighter curves, taking care not to cut into the stitching. Turn the shell right side out and press it lightly. Do not flatten the shape aggressively; the cloth only needs to settle into a smooth form.
4. Fill it in layers
Add the filling a little at a time. Push it first into the fuller end, then work towards the flatter end. Use the blunt end of a wooden spoon or a tightly rolled scrap of cloth to reach the corners and pack the material evenly.
The ham should become firm enough that it does not collapse under hand pressure. It should not be packed so tightly that the seams strain or the cushion becomes hard and lumpy. Turn it repeatedly as you fill it, feeling for soft places and adding material where necessary.
If using sawdust, work slowly and keep it contained. Fine dust can irritate the eyes and lungs, so avoid shaking or pouring it from a height. A funnel made from folded paper can help direct it into the opening. Keep the filling and finished tool away from steam and damp storage.
5. Close and cover the ham
Fold the raw edges of the opening inward and close them with small, strong ladder stitches or an overcast stitch. Pull the stitches firmly, but do not gather the edge.
Place the wool piece over the fuller working surface. Turn its raw edges under and sew it to the cotton body with small slip stitches. Keep the wool smooth without stretching it. If you prefer a removable cover, make a second complete shell from wool and fit it over the filled ham, closing the opening with firm hand stitches.
The wool does not need to cover every part of the ham. It is most useful across the broad curved face where the iron will rest. A cotton section at the underside gives a stable surface when the ham is held against the ironing board.
Make the seam roll
1. Draw a long template
For a useful general-purpose seam roll, draw a rectangle approximately 35 centimetres long and 10 centimetres wide. Round the ends into shallow curves, making the shape resemble a long capsule rather than a box.
Cut the paper template and fold it lengthwise to check the symmetry. For narrow sleeves or children’s garments, make a second, slimmer roll. A small roll is often easier to place inside a tight sleeve than one that is too broad.
2. Cut and sew
Cut two pieces from the firm cotton or linen, adding a seam allowance of about 1.5 centimetres. Cut one wool piece for the upper surface, or prepare a complete wool cover if you want the roll to be reversible.
Sew the cotton pieces right sides together, leaving an opening near one end or along one long edge. Clip the curved ends carefully, turn the shell right side out, and smooth the seam with your fingers.
3. Pack the roll evenly
Fill from the centre towards the ends. Add small amounts and press each layer firmly before adding more. The ends are easy to leave hollow, so check them often with your fingers.
A seam roll needs to be firm and fairly straight. If it develops a waist in the middle, add filling there before closing it. If one side becomes fuller than the other, roll the cushion gently between your hands and redistribute the contents.
Close the opening with strong ladder stitches. Sew on the wool surface in the same way as for the ham, keeping the wool side smooth and free of folds.
Photo by Maria Luiza Ribeiro on Unsplash.
Using the tools without flattening the garment
Place the ham beneath the curved part of the garment, matching the shape of the ham to the shape you want to create. For a dart, position the point of the dart over the narrower end and press from the wide end towards the point. Use the iron to set the cloth rather than dragging it back and forth.
For collars and lapels, support the curve with the fuller part of the ham. Press in sections, allowing the fabric to cool on the form before moving it. A seam that cools while held in its new shape is less likely to spring back.
Use the seam roll beneath seam allowances. Place the stitched seam along the top of the roll, with the allowances falling to either side. Press only the seam allowance or the immediate edge of the seam. This prevents the allowance from leaving a sharp imprint on the garment front.
For a sleeve, insert the seam roll inside the tube where possible. Rotate the sleeve as you work, rather than pressing across several layers at once. The roll gives the sleeve a rounded support and keeps the iron from creating a second crease underneath.
Test the heat and moisture on a fabric scrap first. Wool, silk, synthetics, and dark colours may need a pressing cloth. When using steam, keep the tools dry between uses and allow them to air thoroughly before storing them.
Useful mistakes to avoid
Making the shell too loose
A loose shell produces a soft, shifting tool even when it is heavily filled. Cut accurately and use a firm cloth with little stretch.
Leaving hollow ends
Hollow ends are especially troublesome on the seam roll. Pack the filling into the curves before closing the opening, and check the shape from several directions.
Using coarse or contaminated sawdust
Large splinters can work through the fabric, while oily or damp sawdust can stain and smell. Use clean, dry, fine material or choose wool stuffing instead.
Overfilling
An overfilled tool may strain at the seams and feel too hard beneath fine cloth. The aim is resistance with a little give, not a rigid block.
Pressing directly on the cotton side
The cotton side is useful for handling and durability, but wool is the better pressing surface. It grips the cloth gently and helps prevent unwanted shine on many fabrics.
Ignoring the shape of the garment
The ham is not a substitute for fitting the garment over the correct curve. Move it beneath the work and press in small sections, following the design of the seam rather than forcing the cloth flat.
Photo by Phạm Trần Hoàn Thịnh on Unsplash.
Keeping the pair in service
Store the ham and seam roll somewhere dry, away from direct damp and heavy objects that could deform them. If the wool surface becomes marked, brush it gently rather than soaking the tool. A removable wool cover can be washed or replaced more easily than a filled cushion.
Over time, the filling may settle. If the tool becomes soft, open a small section of the closing seam, add a little more material, and stitch it shut again. A well-shaped pressing aid is a modest object, but it changes the quality of everyday sewing: curved seams remain curved, allowances stay discreet, and the iron can follow the garment instead of flattening it.