A ceramic pie funnel is a small chimney-shaped vent placed through the centre of a pie. It gives steam a way out while helping the pastry keep its shape. The form is simple, but it presents one important challenge: the piece must be hollow, evenly joined, and dry enough to survive firing without cracking.
The most forgiving method is to build the funnel around a temporary paper or foil former. This supports the soft clay while you make a tapered tube, but does not leave a permanent core inside the fired piece. Use a mid- or high-fire stoneware clay and a glaze suitable for food-contact surfaces. The clay and glaze must be fired according to their manufacturers’ instructions.
Before you begin
A useful pie funnel has an open passage from its broad lower end to its smaller upper opening. The base should sit securely on the pastry, while the top remains above the crust to let steam escape. For a first attempt, make a plain tube rather than adding a bird, face, or other closed ornament. Decorative hollow forms introduce extra joins, narrow passages, and places where air can become trapped.
Aim for a finished height of roughly 7–10 cm and a base opening of about 4–6 cm. These are working proportions rather than rules. Remember that stoneware shrinks as it dries and fires, so make the wet form slightly larger than the intended finished size.
The walls should be even, approximately 5–7 mm thick. Very thin walls can warp or break during handling; thick walls dry slowly and are more likely to crack from uneven moisture. Keep the lower rim broad enough to stand firmly, but do not make it so wide that it closes the vent beneath the pie.
Photo by Ivan Pergasi on Unsplash.
Materials and preparation
You will need:
- stoneware clay suitable for the firing temperature of your kiln
- a wooden modelling tool or rib
- a needle tool
- slip made from the same clay body
- a small sponge and a little water
- a rolling pin or slab roller, if available
- baking parchment, thin card, or aluminium foil for a removable former
- a kiln-safe glaze labelled suitable for food-contact ware
- access to a kiln capable of firing the clay and glaze correctly
Cover the work surface with canvas, plaster, or another material that does not pull moisture suddenly from the clay. Wedge the clay thoroughly to remove soft spots and distribute moisture. Wedging is not a substitute for careful construction, but it gives you a more consistent starting material.
Make a former by rolling parchment or foil into a tapered tube. It should be open at both ends and slightly smaller than the finished inside of the funnel. Secure it lightly with a fold rather than a thick lump of tape. The former only needs to hold the clay’s shape while you work; it should lift out without forcing the walls apart.
1. Cut the clay slab
Roll a slab of clay about 6 mm thick. Work from the centre outward and turn the clay regularly so it does not stick or stretch in one direction. Check the thickness with a needle tool or by comparing the edges of the slab.
Cut a rectangle long enough to wrap around the former with a small overlap. Its height should be a little greater than the finished funnel. A separate circular or oval piece can be used for a more pronounced foot, but a simple wrapped tube with a gently flared lower edge is easier for a first piece.
Let the slab firm slightly if it is floppy. It should bend around the former without collapsing, but still be soft enough for the seam to bond.
2. Form the tapered tube
Wrap the slab around the former, keeping the lower edge wider than the upper edge. Press the clay gently against the former with your fingers, working from the centre toward the seam. Do not squeeze only one area, or the wall will become thin there.
Overlap the long edges by about 1 cm. Mark both edges with a needle tool, brush on slip, and press them together. Use a wooden tool to compress the seam from the inside and outside. Follow with your finger or a damp sponge to close any visible split.
The seam should be compressed, not merely covered with a smear of slip. A thick surface coating may dry at a different rate from the slab and later crack. If the seam remains weak, cut it cleanly and rejoin it rather than repeatedly adding wet clay.
Photo by Matt Benson on Unsplash.
3. Shape the rim and base
Trim the upper rim with a needle tool so it is level and open. Smooth the edge with a barely damp sponge. Avoid rounding it so much that the opening narrows.
At the lower end, flare the clay outward a little to make a stable foot. You can press the edge onto the work surface while supporting the former inside, or add a narrow coil around the bottom and blend it carefully into the wall. If you add clay, score both surfaces, apply slip, and compress the join thoroughly.
The base must remain open. Do not cap it with a solid disk. A closed cavity can hold air and moisture, and the pressure created during firing can damage the piece. Any decorative part that creates a sealed chamber should either be left open through a discreet hole or omitted.
If you want a small rolled rim, make it from the existing clay by compressing and rounding the edge. A separate heavy coil can pull the wall out of shape as it dries. Keep the upper opening clear and large enough for steam to pass through.
4. Refine without overworking
Remove the former while the clay is still firm enough to hold its shape. If it catches, loosen the seam slightly rather than pulling hard on the wall. For foil, flatten one end and draw it out gently. For parchment, lift it from the inside with a blunt tool.
Inspect the inner passage. It should be continuous from base to top, with no flap of clay hanging across it. Use the wooden tool to compress rough areas, and use the sponge sparingly. Too much water weakens the surface and encourages slumping.
Check the wall thickness around the whole funnel. A needle tool can be used to make a discreet test mark in an area that will sit beneath the pastry, though a separate thickness sample is better if you are uncertain. Repair thin places with a small, well-compressed patch rather than a wet coating.
5. Dry slowly and evenly
Set the funnel on a smooth, absorbent surface and cover it loosely with plastic. Leave one edge slightly open so moisture can escape gradually. Turn the piece after a day if the base is drying more slowly than the upper wall.
Drying is one of the most important parts of the process. The seam, foot, and main wall should lose moisture at a similar rate. A warm windowsill, heater, or direct sun can dry one side too quickly and cause a split. Let the piece become completely bone dry before firing; it should feel room temperature rather than cool and damp.
Do not hurry the kiln firing to compensate for a damp piece. Any remaining moisture can turn to steam as the kiln heats. Place the dry funnel on a kiln shelf with its broad base down, leaving space around it. Never fire a piece that is visibly damp or has a sealed cavity.
6. Bisque fire
Bisque-fire the funnel according to the clay body’s instructions. The first firing hardens the clay while leaving it porous enough to accept glaze. Use the kiln schedule recommended for the stoneware rather than choosing a temperature solely from a general chart.
After firing, inspect the seam, rim, and foot. Small surface irregularities can be smoothed carefully with a fine abrasive suitable for fired clay, while cracks that pass through the wall are a reason to discard the piece for cooking use. Do not rely on glaze to bridge a structural crack.
7. Glaze for kitchen use
Choose a glaze made for the clay body and firing range. A food-safe label is useful, but the glaze must also be fired to its stated maturity. Apply it evenly, following the manufacturer’s directions. Two thin coats are often easier to control than one heavy coat.
Keep glaze off the bottom rim and any area that will touch the kiln shelf. Also check the inside of the passage. A thin, even coating there makes the surface easier to clean, but excess glaze can run, narrow the vent, or fuse the funnel to the shelf. Wipe the foot clean with a damp sponge before firing.
A plain glossy surface is often the most practical choice for a pie funnel. Deep texture and crawling glaze can collect pastry fat and make cleaning difficult. Avoid using an unknown decorative glaze on an object intended for food or heat.
Photo by David Trinks on Unsplash.
8. Glaze fire and test
Fire the glazed funnel according to the clay and glaze instructions. Let it cool fully before handling it. Look for pinholes, sharp edges, glaze runs, or cracks. Run a fingertip around both openings; any sharp burr should be removed before the funnel is used.
Wash the finished piece by hand with warm water and mild washing-up liquid. Do not move it directly between a hot oven and cold water, since sudden temperature changes can cause thermal shock. Let it warm gradually in the oven if the recipe allows, and allow it to cool before washing.
For the first use, place the funnel in a simple pie rather than one with a very wet filling or a long, unattended bake. Set it centrally through the pastry so the broad base rests securely and the upper opening remains clear. Afterward, check for new cracks, flaking glaze, or staining that cannot be cleaned. If the surface is damaged, stop using the piece for food.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Making the wall too thin: the funnel may distort while drying or break at the seam.
- Using slip as glue without scoring and compressing: the join can open during drying.
- Leaving a closed pocket: every hollow space should be open or pierced with a vent hole.
- Drying in direct heat: uneven drying is a common cause of cracks.
- Glazing the foot: glaze can fuse the funnel to the kiln shelf.
- Applying too much glaze inside: a narrowed passage defeats the purpose of the vent.
- Using an unknown glaze: kitchenware requires a clay and glaze combination fired as directed.
The finished funnel need not be elaborate. A clean passage, a stable base, even walls, and a properly fired surface matter more than ornament. Once this plain form behaves well, you can explore small open decorations while keeping the same careful attention to joins, drying, and escape routes for air.